Introduction
These socks look very strange while you are making them. After the rib band, they slant to the side. That’s what enables them to be worn without any heel shaping and be so comfortable. This is what makes them so great and so special. So they are very easy to knit, and you get a lot more wear because you have the whole circumference of the foot as the "heel". The twisted pattern means that the heel section is full of "give".
You don't have to worry about making them an exact length, because they'll fit any foot. To make them longer or shorter, just knit more or less.
You can use this pattern for slipper socks round home, socks for boots or joggers, or bed socks.
Materials
On my first pair, I used double knitting wool and Size 8 (4mm) needles. If you aim for a tension of 6.5 stitches to the inch, you'll get an adult sock. I used about 3 50gm balls.
My wool was a bit thicker than the standard double knit. It made up a lovely thick soft sock. This made a sock that fitted both my adult son and daughter. I made mine 12 inches long to the rib cuff – this was 69 rows.
However, the subsequent pairs I made were on Size 9 needles, and I got a firmer fabric, and each sock took 1 50gm ball. In this case I knitted 77 rows.
You can really use what you like. Remember with socks you usually use a size or two smaller needle, to give a tighter weave for wear. So if you were using 4 ply, you’d use a Size 11 or 12 needle.
Directions
The Cuff:
Cast on 48 stitches. Rib k2, p2 for about 3 inches (21 rows) or however long you want it.
On the last rib row, k1, increase 1 by knitting into the front and back of the stitch, rib next 22 stitches, k1, increase again, rib to 3 from end, increase again, p2 (You now have 51 stitches).
Body of the Sock:
Row 1: Right side - k1, (slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, k3, knit into front and back of next stitch, k1) to last stitch, k1
Row 2: Wrong side - Knit 1, Purl to last stitch, Knit 1 (This gives a row of small notches that make it easy to count rows, and a little ladder for sewing up.)
Repeat these two rows until work measures 12.5 inches from cast on edge, or as long as you like. For me it was 61 rows on Size 8 needles, and 77 rows on Size 9 needles.
You'll see quite soon the slant in the knitting - this looks really odd but it's how it is supposed to be! Carry on!
The Toe:
Row 1: k1 (Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slip stitch over, k5) to last stitch, Knit 1
Row 2: Purl (and purl all wrong side rows)
Row 3: k1 (Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slip stitch over, k4) to last stitch, Knit 1
Row 5: k1 (Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slip stitch over, k3) to last stitch, Knit 1
Row 7: k1 (Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slip stitch over, k2) to last stitch, Knit 1
Row 9: k1 (Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slip stitch over, k1) to last stitch, Knit 1
Row 10: Purl 2 together to end.
Sewing up:
Thread wool through remaining stitches, and pull firmly. With the tail from your cast on, sew up the side seam, using no knots. Weave in the tail from the cast off. Knots make uncomfortable bumps.
